Summer Weather Garment Care

We lather up, jump in and enjoy during warm weather. With that come many products that can damage clothing items. Here are some quick tips to minimize that damage. 

Antiperspirant
Potential Problem: Build-up from deodorant and antiperspirant products can cause fiber damage and yellowing.  Blue and green on silk and wool are particularly prone.  Aluminum chloride can weaken fibers in cotton, linen, rayon, and some synthetic blends, leaving holes during cleaning.
Clothing Care: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application. Avoid overuse and allow antiperspirant/deodorant to dry before dressing. Soiled garments should be washed or dry cleaned as soon as possible.

Sunblock and Suntan Lotions
Potential Problem: Dyes and oils in suntan/sunblock lotions can stain clothing. This color loss or change may not appear until after you clean your clothes. 
Clothing Care: Avoid many stains by following the directions on the bottle, allow the lotions to dry before dressing, and wash your hands before handling clothes.

Swimwear 
Potential Problem: Chlorine in pools, spas, and hot tubs can damage spandex used in swimwear. 
Clothing Care: Rinse your suit after wearing and follow the care label’s instructions.

Self-Tanning Lotions
Potential Problem: Self-tanners may discolor anything they touch!  Light tan, brown, or yellow staining on the cuffs, collar fold, and neckband, and upper button areas, are typical. 
Clothing Care: Follow the instructions carefully, being sure to wash your hands immediately and allow your skin time to dry before dressing.  If the product gets on your clothes, wash them as soon as possible, as these stains can be difficult to remove.

Insect Repellents
Potential Problem: Repellents usually will not damage most fibers; however, some products contain alcohol and can cause color loss or color change on fabrics such as acetate and rayon.
Clothing Care: Read the label carefully, especially if applying directly to clothing.
 

Removing Paint from Childrens Clothes & Skin

Help! The Kids are Home from School and Art Projects are a Mess

Q: How can I remove paint stains from my child’s clothing?
A: Most paints children end up playing with are water soluble and will easily come out in regular washing. The acrylics and other types of paints are better left to professional cleaners who can get the garments clean and flush out all of the stain removal chemicals used to achieve that end. Any residual stain removal chemicals can harm your child’s skin, so it’s best to leave that kind of work to the pros - us.

Q: How can I get paint off of my child’s skin?
A: Again, water-soluble paints will come off very easily, but acrylic or oil-based paints are a little more difficult. These paints will not bond with the skin, and may simply flake or peel off after drying. A little rubbing alcohol and a dry cloth can get the paint to come off and clean your child’s pores.
 

Pain in the Necktie

Even though many workplaces have casual dress codes, neckties for men are still a big part of their wardrobe. Ties can be a powerful or fun fashion statement and pose a cleaning problem. The fabric used for ties is cut diagonally to the weave, or “on the bias,” so it makes a neat knot when worn around the neck. 

Unfortunately, this type of cut is easily distorted or stretched, causing puckering and fullness. In many instances, sizing or finishes are used during manufacturing to stabilize fabrics. If the finish is removed in cleaning, the fabric will lose its shape and stability. In the case of ties, this makes it nearly impossible to return the necktie to a wearable condition.

Sometimes a tie doubles as a bib and collects a variety of stains. Most tie stains require water to remove them. In many cases, the dyes are also affected by water, leading to problems when it comes time to tackle a tough stain. Attempts to remove the stains will likely disturb the dyes.
The several layers used to make neckties prevent quick drying of any particular area. The typical solution is to take the tie apart to work on only one layer at a time, but this can also cause distortions because of the bias cut.

So, let us take care of your ties and you can take care of your business. 
 

Common Sense Rules for Winter Clothing Storage

Now that winter is over, it’s time to store away all those winter clothes until next season. Follow these simple rules to keep your winter fashions looking good season after season.

    •    Wash and dryclean everything before storage. Some stains that are now invisible may darken with age. Dirt and food are also invitations to insects.

    •    Make all necessary repairs—sew sagging hemlines, replace missing buttons, and fix split seams— before cleaning and storing for the season.

    •    Store all items in a cool, well-ventilated area. Hot attics, damp basements, and garages are to be avoided.

    •    Store away from natural and artificial light. A cool, dark closet is a good location for storage. Store woolens in cedar chests or other airtight containers. Second choices for storage are cloth or canvas bags and cardboard boxes. If you store your garments in a closet, drape a cloth sheet over your clothes to protect them from dust and light. Do not store leathers, furs, and woolens in plastic. Plastic encourages moisture, which can create mildew.

    •    Pack airtight containers (other than cedar chests) with mothballs suspended above or separate from the clothes—never place mothballs directly on the clothes. Cedar blocks or chips also discourage moths.

    •    To decrease wrinkles in sweaters, fold them and wrap in white tissue paper before storing. If you hang your sweaters, fold over the cross bar to avoid shoulder stretches. Down, like all winter clothing, should be cleaned (either washed or drycleaned according to the care label) before storage. Down should be stored loosely to allow for air circulation. 

    •    Furs should be stored on a wellpadded hanger in a cool, dark place, ideally with a professional fur storage company or a drycleaner with fur storage capacity.

    •    If you do not have proper storage space, ask us about box storage. You can get your clothes cleaned and properly stored all at the same time. 
 

Take Care when Caring for Wool

Wool is a popular sweater fabric because it is durable, comfortable, and an excellent insulator. If your wool sweater gets damp, hang it to air dry at room temperature. Do not hang near a heat source, as this will promote mildew. A gentle brushing of wool sweaters after each wearing helps remove surface soil.

If the care label suggests hand washing, use cool water with mild soap or bleach-free detergent. Soak up to five minutes and rinse thoroughly. Squeeze out excess water, but do not wring or twist the fabric. To dry, lay the sweater flat, away from sunlight or heat. If using a plastic sweater board as a drying surface, covering the board with a towel (under the sweater) will help prevent snagging.

If the care label suggests machine washing, use the gentle cycle. Bring your wools, or any sweater with dryclean-only label, to us for stain removal.

Cleaning and Storing Garments to Prevent Insect Damage

Mysteriously appearing holes may be the result of insect damage. Often the holes may not be readily apparent until after cleaning. Garments that have been stored for a long time are particularly prone to insect damage. Moth damage is commonly seen on wool fabrics, but beetles, silverfish, roaches, and other insects feed on stains and sizings on fabrics made of other fibers. The type of fabric or food substance insects are attracted to determines whether the damage they cause is direct or indirect. 

Direct damage occurs when insects such as webbing cloth moths, casemaking cloth moths, and sometimes termites, feed directly on the fabric. This group of insects attacks wool, mohair, natural bristles, fur, feathers, and down. They also damage blended fibers such as wool/polyester - dispelling the notion that the use of synthetic fibers immunizes the fabrics against insect damage.

Indirect damage occurs when insects such as silverfish, beetles, and roaches feed on leftover food, perspiration, beverage spills, and starch on the fabric. For this reason, any stains, especially food and beverage residue, should be removed from a garment before it is stored. Prevention of insect damage includes cleaning garments and using mothballs or cedar chests. Cleaning discourages insects from making their home in your garments. Although most forms of moth life are destroyed by drycleaning solvents during cleaning, moth larvae can attack fabrics once the solvent evaporates.

Using moth balls or cedar chests or chips can help prevent insect damage. The odor of mothballs may repel larvae and insects if the area of use is enclosed, thus ensuring a high concentration of odor. Suspend the mothballs above the garments; do not place them directly on the garments. The scent of cedar chests or chips repels insects, but it is the air tightness of the chest that protects the garments from insect damage.

One problem with using mothballs is the lingering odor after the garments are removed from storage. Try hanging the garments outside for several days after removal from storage. If hanging outside won’t remove the mothball odor, ask us to remove the odors. In some cases we may need to use an ozone generator. Ozone generators work by passing dry air through a high frequency electrical field. The resulting electrical discharge splits an oxygen molecule into two free atoms, allowing them to combine with an oxygen molecule that has not been split to form ozone. The contact between ozone and the odors embedded in the textiles causes oxidation to recur, eliminating the odors and releasing oxygen. 

Your garments will love you for not leaving them to the moths.
 

Common Sense Rules for Summertime Storage

To keep your winter fashions looking good season after season, follow these simple rules for storing your warm and wooly items:

1. Clean or dryclean everything before storage. Dirt and food are invitations to insects.
2. Make all necessary repairs - sew hemlines, replace buttons, and fix split seams - before cleaning and storing.
3. Store all items in a cool, well-ventilated area.
4. Store away from natural and artificial light. Hot attics, damp basements, and garages are to be avoided.
5. Store woolens in cedar chests or in other airtight containers. Second choices for storage of woolens are cloth or canvas bags and cardboard boxes. If you store in a closet, drape a cloth sheet over your clothes to protect them from dust and light. Do not store in plastic.
6. Pack airtight containers (other than cedar chests) with mothballs separate from the clothes, never on them.
7. To discourage wrinkles in sweaters, fold them and wrap in white tissue paper before storing. If you hang your sweaters, fold over the cross bar to avoid shoulder stretches.
8. Down, like all winter clothing, should be cleaned (either washed or drycleaned according to the care label) before end of season storage. Down should be stored loosely, to allow for air circulation.
9. Furs should be stored on a wellpadded hangar in a cool dark place, ideally with a professional fur storage company or a drycleaner with fur storage capacity.
10. If you do not have proper storage space, ask your drycleaner about box storage. You can get your clothes cleaned and properly stored for the season all at the same time.
 

Caring for Rainwear

As those April showers head our way, months-long-forsaken raincoats are being pulled out of the closet to be used once again. But raincoats aren't just for spring anymore, they are multifunctional garments that protect you from the rain, keep you warm on cool days, and can even be worn with evening wear.

Raincoats come in a variety of fabrics including brushed cotton, water-repellent wool gabardines, blends of polyester and rayon, cotton and wool, and even coated velvets. The traditional yellow raincoat is no longer the norm as prints, plaids, vibrant colors, subdued colors, even combinations of designs and colors appear on the scene. In addition, raincoats today frequently sport trims of fur, suede, corduroy or other decorative fabrics.

As with any garment, raincoats have special cleaning needs. In the next few paragraphs, we will take a look at proper care procedures that will keep your raincoat looking great.

Brushed cotton is frequently used on raincoats to create a softer, more natural look. Brushed fabrics of this type tend to show abrasion more readily during wear than the more traditional tightly woven, smooth cotton or cotton blend fabrics. In particular, areas around the collar, cuffs, elbows and seams may develop chafed or light areas with continued use. The localized wear may appear more prominently on darker colors. This is a subtle condition that develops as the item is worn, but may become more evident after the garment is cleaned and the soil removed.

Many of the brightly colored cottons used in rainwear contain dyes and finishes that are not totally resistant to drycleaning, producing a fading or dulling of the color when the article is drycleaned. Rainwear fabrics fall under the Care Label Rule and, therefore, should contain dyes and colors that are resistant to the suggested care procedure on the label. If the colors are not resistant, the rainwear should be returned to the retailer for an adjustment or replacement. The use of non-colorfast dyes in garments continues to be one of the major defects found in items that are routinely brought in to drycleaners.

Most raincoats go through the "waterproofing" process during manufacture, in which a rubber coating is applied to the reverse side of the coat. Rubberized materials generally do not respond well to drycleaning, and such materials may need to be wetcleaned. Some rainwear with rubberized backings mistakenly have dryclean labels. Drycleaners will be reluctant to dryclean such an article, and may request the customerís permission to use a wetcleaning process instead. Even with wetcleaning, the colorfastness of the cloth fabric must be taken into consideration before the article is cleaned.

Rainwear is often made more fashionable by treating the outer fabric with urethane coating, giving the garment a very smooth, slick leather-like appearance. These coatings are often hard to distinguish from real leather unless extensive testing is done. 

Some of these coatings are attached to the fabric with adhesives that are resistant to drycleaning procedures, and may result in may result in bubbling, blistering and peeling of the film. In some cases, this problem starts to develop from wear around the collar, cuffs, and pocket edges even before the cleaning. Some urethane films are very thin and are known to have limited abrasive resistance. These films may start to separate and break up around the collar area from the effects of perspiration and body oils that have remained on the fabric for an extended period of time. For this reason, periodic cleaning of rainwear is advisable.

Many cloth combinations are used in making raincoats, and these fabrics are often treated with water repellent finishes. The water repellent finish is different from the waterproofing previously described. Water repellent finishes usually have a degree of permanency that will withstand several drycleanings. In some cases, however, the water repellent finish breaks down, sometimes during the third or even later cleanings. If this occurs, the rainwear will need to be retreated by the cleaner who has special equipment for applying water-repellent finishes.

Colors Sometimes Run

Garments lose color for various reasons. Contact with bleach or household cleaning products can disturb dyes, resulting in white discolorations. Same with hair preparations and other moisture solutions or perfumes and other substances containing alcohol.

"Fugitive dyes" are not colorfast to cleaning solutions and are the biggest manufacturer-related problem reported by the International Textile Analysis Laboratory (ITAL), an independent organization based in Laurel, Maryland. In these cases, the dyes dissolve when an item is cleaned in drycleaning solvent or water despite the instructions on the care label. The color loss may occur throughout the garment or be localized in certain areas. For instance, the pink flowers on a pink-and-white print may be solvent-soluble but may come out completely white after cleaning.

Some dyes are more susceptible to loss of color than others. Pink, red, blue, and black are usually the most troublesome colors and can be expected to show some type of variance regardless of the precautions taken.

How can you minimize color loss?

• Follow the care label. Instructions that specify that the garment be washed with similar colors, separately, or in cold water may indicate unstable dyes.
• If you suspect a dye, such as red or pink, will bleed during washing, wash with similar colors in cold water on short cycle to minimize any color loss and dye transfer to other articles in the load.
• Clean all the pieces of a matching outfit at the same time to avoid any color discrepancies.
• Store garments away from natural and artificial light. A cool, dark closet is a good location for storage.
• Treat all spills immediately. Blot - do not rub. Some spills like soft drinks may dry invisibly but can show up later.
• Use care when applying perfumes, hair spray, and other alcohol-containing substances, bleach, and skin preparations.
• Have garments cleaned as soon as possible after wear to prevent color loss from perspiration.
• Point out any spills and examine the garment before cleaning for any type of color loss.
• If you purchase a drycleanable garment that you suspect may have color problems (multiple colors or red/white combinations), ask us to test it for colorfastness. If tests show the colors may bleed, you may opt to return it to your retailer for a refund.

Remember that some garments may have color problems in spite of the care label and testing. 

Cleaning Neckties

As an important accessory in every gentleman's wardrobe, neckties require the same care as any other type of apparel. Accidents will happen and it can be important to know how to care for neckties properly. Often, neckties do not require cleaning until they encounter a spill or they become soiled.

Cleaning a necktie presents challenges even to the most experienced drycleaner. The fabric is often a multicolor print that is usually colorfast to drycleaning but not to water. As a result, stain removal may involve carefully testing each color for colorfastness. If the dyes bleed too easily, a cleaner may choose not to attempt removal of stains that are not removed in drycleaning.

Several layers are used to construct a necktie, and a cleaner may need to take the tie apart in order to remove a stain.

Otherwise, moisture may be retained in the thicker, interfaced areas, which may contribute to dye bleeding and migration.

Because the fabric is usually cut on the bias or diagonal grain, neckties may also be susceptible to distortion during wear and cleaning. We employ a variety of special tools and techniques to return the necktie to a like-new appearance without causing distortion.

Please exercise caution when attempting home stain removal on neckties. Remember to blot the stain; do not rub. Rubbing the area while damp may break the surface yarns, resulting in localized color loss that may not become apparent until the tie is needed for an important meeting.

Serviceability and cleanability of neckties depends on the materials used in their construction. If the fabrics or dyes cannot withstand normal use or care, serviceability becomes very limited.  

HANDLING ITEMS WITHOUT CARE LABELS

Have you ever wondered how drycleaners process items that do not have a care label? Most cleaners receive items without care labels regularly. When a customer checks in an item without a label, whether it is a comforter, a pair of twill pants, or an evening gown, the first thing we test for is colorfastness. This is done by testing a small sample, usually where the results will not be visible. The test is performed by folding a piece of blotter paper over the area that has been dampened with cleaning solution or rubbing the surface with a towel that has been dampened with cleaning solution. These tests help determine the best method of care with regard to color.

The next step involves testing any attached to the item. This includes testing the coating on the trim in addition to the trim itself. Testing the coating involves rubbing a sample of the trim with a towel that has been dampened with drycleaning solvent or a water/detergent solution. After testing the coating, the trim is then immersed in solvent or a water/detergent solution. If there is more than one type of trim, each type will need to be tested.
 

Making Draperies Last

Draperies can susceptible to a wide variety of problems, ranging from shrinkage and fading to stains and abrasion damage. Too often we only think of cleaning draperies after they’ve been framing our windows for a few years. Sometimes problems can develop over time while they are just hanging there, doing their job of beautifying out homes.

What problems are associated with draperies?

Because draperies are exposed to atmospheric conditions in greater concentrations and for longer periods of time than most garments and textiles, they can encounter a number of problems. Often these problems do not become evident until the item has been drycleaned or washed.

Some of the more common problems associated with draperies are damage due to light exposure; poor colorfastness; yellowing due to the deterioration of finishes or soil accumulation; water marks; shrinkage; abrasion damage; and deterioration of the coating or lining during cleaning. Some of these problems are a result of defects in manufacturing. 

Others, however, such as damage due to light exposure, yellowing due to soil accumulation, water marks, and abrasion damage, can usually be attributed to circumstances of use.

What can you do to make your draperies last?

The American National Standards Institute's Fair Claims Guide for Consumer Textile Products gives the following life expectancies for draperies: • Lined Draperies 5 years • Unlined Draperies 4 years • Sheer Draperies 3 years • Fiber Glass Draperies 4 years.

How long a drapery lasts depends on the fabric type and density, finishes, window location, and length of use. But it also depends on their selection and the care they receive. Here are some tips to help you keep your draperies looking great:

• To protect drapes against yellowing due to excess staining and soiling, clean the drape at least once a year.

• It is best that you have your drapes cleaned by a cleaner who is experienced in the cleaning of drapes and is knowledgeable in drapery problems.

• Protect drapes from prolonged dampness. Moisture from rain, leaky pipes, or condensation from window panes can result in water marks and mildew.

• If possible, rotate draperies periodically to vary the amount of light exposure received.

• Protect drapes from abrasion damage by avoiding constant rubbing on window sills or furnishings while in use. Abrasion damage can also be caused by a family pet snagging the fabric with sharp claws.

• Keep draperies away from the kitchen, wood stoves, or fireplaces. Smoke from wood stoves, fireplaces, and cigarettes; cooking fumes; and other atmospheric contaminants can contribute greatly to drapery soiling.
 

Velvet: A Royal Fabric

Velvet is one of winter’s fashion favorites, especially crushed velvets and velvet garments with decorative trim. Many types of apparel are made of velvet, including pants, dresses, gowns, coats, capes, and jackets. Velvet is also popular for household items, such as furniture covers and drapes.

What is velvet?

Velvet has long been known as the fabric of royalty. At one time, blue velvet was reserved solely for use by the French king, his family, and favored subjects.

Velvets are made on a double action loom. Two layers of fabric are woven at the same time, and the space between them is interlaced with connecting yarns.

The two layers are then cut apart as they come off the loom, producing two pieces of fabric with an upright pile surface.

True velvet is usually made of rayon, acetate, silk, or a blend of these fibers and has a short, closely-woven pile. Velveteen is similar to velvet, but it is usually made of cotton or cotton/polyester blend and has a shorter pile. Finishes are often applied to velvets to keep the pile erect and resilient, to secure the pile, or to give the fabric body.

What types of problems can velvets experience?

Velvet can experience a variety of problems, including a loss of pile, flattening and matting, pilling and tufting, and shrinkage. Crushed velvets have a tendency to experience a loss of design and distortion from wear alone. Velvets made of acetate pose special problems: the pile can become permanently flattened with moisture, heat, or pressure. As a result, the pile on an acetate velvet dress is more likely to show the effects of wear. Even greater flattening develops if the velvet is brushed or if any pressure is put on it while wet.

How can you keep your velvets fit for royalty?

• Hang velvet garments in a well-ventilated closet after wearing.

• If a velvet garment gets wet, do not apply pressure, as this can flatten the pile.

• Do not iron velvets. Hang in the bathroom and steam the garment to remove any wrinkles.

• Clean velvet garments immediately after use.

• Shake excess spills from the fabric and allow to dry. Do not blot or apply any pressure in damp areas.

• If you do get a stain on a velvet garment, our stain removal experts can help. 
 

Caring for Household Items

Open the windows and let the sun shine in! But be careful where those rays go because they could fade some parts of your home environment.

Sometimes we forget about household items that blend into our homes so much they become a part of the scenery. These items collect dust and dirt and can become damaged, faded or discolored in their inactivity. Since we see them everyday, gradual changes come about without our noticing. 

Guest room items are often overlooked, as many comforters on guest room beds sit in direct sunlight and are rarely noticed. Draperies, upholstery, rugs, and pillows all fade into the background. While these items brighten our homes, they are collecting dust, grime, food crumbs, and stains.

Trained fabric care professionals like us have the knowledge and equipment to care for your household items so you can enjoy them even longer. Here are some tips you can use to get the most out your household items.

Comforters
Comforters rarely become soiled as they rest atop other blankets and bed coverings. Sooner or later they will acquire a stain or collect enough dust to warrant cleaning. Comforters left in direct sunlight can fade in some areas. It is best to keep comforters and heirloom quilts out of direct light to prevent damage.

We can process your comforters and quilts to get the dust and grime out of them safely. Many comforters will not fit into home washers but fit easily into oversized professional cleaning machines.

Handmade quilts are especially susceptible to dye bleeding since the fabric components of the quilt vary. We test quilts to ensure no bleeding will ruin it.

Blankets
Blankets are available in many fibers and construction types, including wool, cotton, acrylic, polyester, and polyurethane. A blanket's construction plays a direct role in its thermal qualities and should be cleaned to protect its ability to contain heat. Our team is skilled in the methods of cleaning blankets to preserve their heat-retaining qualities and appearance.

Decorative Pillows
Upholstery fabrics used for furniture are usually used to cover decorative pillows. Occasionally, pillows are also made to match draperies or other home furnishings. Most of these items are not supposed to be cleaned unless the manufacturer recommends a procedure. Do not remove the stuffing from cushions for cleaning.

Drapes
Drapes can hang for years between cleanings. Often, exposure to sunlight and changing temperatures lead to fabric damage in drapes. In time, soil and dust in the room, as well as outside atmospheric dirt and gasses from industry, automobiles, and construction, may soil the drapes. Many of these soils can be removed through careful cleaning practices.

Water stains appear when moisture from condensation on the window, humidity or spilled liquids causes the soils to disperse, leaving a stained area.

Moisture may also be responsible for displacing drapery sizing. After the moisture evaporates, a ring or streak may be noticeable because soils can be removed. You may notice discoloration due to light combining with oxygen, which tears down certain chemicals in fibers.

We often hear about white drapes that have yellowed noticeably in certain areas. Most fibers have a natural tendency to slowly oxidize and yellow from aging and atmospheric exposure. Any drapery material used to cover a window is exposed to both direct and indirect light. 

The best way to prevent excessive damage or fading is to rotate a few different sets of drapes, blankets or comforters periodically, or with the seasons. Keep furniture out of direct light to minimize fading. This will not only brighten the look of your home, but it will ensure that you get the most mileage out of your household items.
 

Keeping Blankets Looking & Feeling Great

Blankets are essential items in every home. Blanket composition ranges from synthetic to natural fibers; from non-woven to woven fabrics; and from neutral colors to exotic prints.

Caring for (non-electric) Blankets
At some point in time, most blankets will need to be cleaned. It is always best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when cleaning blankets. Although the Federal Trade Commission does not require care labels on blankets, care instructions are usually provided on a permanent label or temporary hang tag. In most cases, blankets should be machine washed on a gentle cycle in cold to warm water and line dried or tumble dried low.

Most blankets can also be drycleaned (except for electric blankets, which can be damaged by drycleaning).

Wool is Special
Wool blankets can be either of a woven or knit fabric construction and require special precautions when cleaning. Hot water or high drying temperatures may cause wool blankets to shrink and feel harsh and stiff. If the care label suggests, machine wash only in cold water on a gentle cycle with mild detergent, and line dry or tumble dry low.

Even though you may follow the recommended care instructions, some wool blankets may still experience shrinkage.

Industry standards for shrinkage in blankets allow as much as six percent after five washings. For example, a wool blanket that is 81 x 108 inches in size can shrink as much as 4 1/2 inches in one direction and 6 1/2 inches in the other direction, resulting in a blanket that is 76 1/2 x 101 1/2 inches in size. 
 

Cleaning Up After a Holiday Feast

The holidays are a time for joy and family, not for worrying about yucky stains on your nice tablecloth.  So, relax, this handy stain removal guide will walk you through some of the most common dinner stains you may encounter this holiday season.  Remember, there is always the option of taking your stained items to a professional so you won’t have to deal with it.  We remove stains like these every day.  

Candle Wax
Gently lift off the larger pieces.  Treat with a solvent-based stain removal product.  Wash in the hottest water safe for the fabric.

Wine Stain
Lightly touch with an absorbent towel to draw up the liquid or put paper towels under the spill.  Blotting can spread the stain.  After dinner: rinse in cool water; treat with a mild detergent and white vinegar.

Coffee
Same as wine.

Salad Oil
This is the worst because it can yellow with age if not removed.  Cover a big spill at the table with absorbent powder.  Shake off after supper.  Apply a mild detergent mixed with household ammonia, ASAP.  Wait 5-10 minutes and wash in the hottest water safe for the fabric.

Cranberry
Rinse with cool water and treat with a mild detergent and white vinegar before washing.

Time is of the Essence
It is always best to wash stained items or take them to your cleaner as soon as possible.  If your table linens are colored or have colored embroidery check for colorfastness before using the various stain removal products.  Anytime a stain is not washed out before drying it can become more difficult to remove.
 

How Do You Clean Cotton?

Most cottons can be washed, but some require drycleaning, so it is important to check the instructions on the care label before cleaning.

• Separate colors before washing. Many cottons may bleed.
• Check the care label for special ironing instructions. Most easy care cottons such as those labeled “wash and wear” and “little or no ironing” need only a cool iron. Save the “cotton” setting for untreated cottons, such as handkerchiefs or tablecloths.
• Most cottons should be ironed on the right side. One exception is embossed or embroidered cottons, which should be ironed on the wrong side (face down), preferably on a padded cloth.
   

Fancy Fabrics Require Gentle Treatment

Not all fabrics are created equal. The way a garment is constructed plays a major role in its cleanability and impacts its use in wear. Here are three extreme examples of higher maintenance clothing items and how to make them last longer and look their best.

Special Care for Silk & Rayon
Silk and rayon are two widely used fibers in men's and women's apparel. In today's markets, these fabrics can be seen in high-end designer wear, as well as casualwear. Both fibers may be dyed various colors, from the darkest black to brilliant reds, fuchsia, and yellow.

Follow the tips below to make sure your silk and rayon items retain their luster for the fullest extent of time possible.

For best results, follow the care label on your silks and rayons. Don't dry clean your "washable" silk and rayons, unless the care label specifies that  dry cleaning also is acceptable.

Have all parts of an outfit cleaned at the same time to maintain a uniform appearance. 

Never use bleach-it permanently damages silk.

Allow perfume, deodorant, and hair spray to dry before dressing and remove spills from alcoholic beverages as quickly as
possible. Alcohol can cause dye bleeding and discoloration.

Use caution with household products. Alkaline products such as facial soaps, shampoos, detergents, and even toothpastes can cause color loss or change on silk. If contact occurs, talk to your dry cleaner promptly about the possibility of restoration.

Store your garments in closets or away from light sources. Most colors used on silk and rayon fabrics can eventually fade from such exposure. Natural light and electric lights are equal color killers.

Fashion or a Pain in the Necktie?
Neckties are both a fashion statement for men and a problem for cleaners. The fabric used for ties is cut diagonally to the weave, or "on the bias," so it makes a neat knot when worn around the neck. 

Unfortunately, this type of cut is easily distorted or stretched, causing puckering and fullness. In many instances, sizing or finishes are used during manufacturing to stabilize fabrics. If the finish is removed in cleaning, the fabric will lose its shape and stability. In the case of ties, this makes it nearly impossible to return the necktie to a wearable condition.

Sometimes a tie doubles as a bib and collects a variety of stains. Most tie stains require water to remove them. In many cases, the dyes are also affected by water, leading to problems when it comes time to tackle a tough stain. Attempts to remove the stains will likely disturb the dyes.

The several layers used to make neckties prevent quick drying of any particular area. The typical solution is to take the tie apart to work on only one layer at a time, but this can also cause distortions because of the bias cut.

Caring for Metallic Fabrics
Silver and gold metallic fabrics are popular in women's attire. Metallic fabric is made by spraying a metallic finish on the surface of a cloth fabric. Many of these surface finishes have limited resistance to care procedures and wear. The metallic finish may be removed or corroded and discolored around the neck and underarm area from the effects of perspiration and body contact. Since the fabrics are often very sheer, they are easily snagged or abraded by jewelry or rough edges of furniture.

It is important to have this type of garment cleaned immediately after wear so stains and soils can be removed before they start to react adversely with the surface finish. Over time the extended effects of fruit juice acids, soft drinks, and mixed drinks can cause a discoloring or bleaching effect on some of the metallic coatings. Although most of these items carry "dry clean only" labels, some cleaners have found that the surfaces of the silver and gold finishes may lose their color in dry cleaning.

Drycleaning these materials for only a few minutes is sometimes enough to considerably fade or dull the colors in some metallic items. If this occurs, return the item to the retailer.
 

Fading Bedspreads

Now that the winter has ended, you decide to take your favorite bedspread to the drycleaner for cleaning before storage. But when you get it back, to your horror you discover that the colors have faded substantially.

Unfortunately, comforters, quilts, bedspreads, and other household items can sometimes fade during acceptable cleaning procedures. In most cases, the surface color has a streaked or frosted appearance. There may also be an overall lightening or complete change of color. Sometimes this type of color change or fading may not be noticeable until the bedspread or comforter is compared with other matching components in the bedroom ensemble.

Fading of this kind occurs when the dyes or pigments applied during manufacturing are not colorfast to drycleaning solvent. Unfortunately, the drycleaner has no way of knowing whether the dyes will fade during acceptable cleaning procedures.

When you bring in a comforter or bedspread for cleaning, tell your cleaner that you want it tested for colorfastness prior to cleaningóregardless of the label. Testing should also be done to determine which care processólaundering or drycleaningówould be safest for the color. In some cases, bedspreads that cannot be drycleaned may be laundered safely. However, there are bedspreads and comforters, especially prints, that cannot withstand washing or drycleaning procedures without fading.

If tests show that the colors may fade, you will need to decide how or if you want your drycleaner to clean the bedspread, which may result in fading of the colors. If you decide you still want it cleaned, you should have any matching components cleaned as well to ensure that the color will be consistent. Your cleaner will probably have you sign a release. Most of all, you should remember that once a bedspread or comforter has faded, the colors cannot be restored.
 

How White Are Your Clothes?

Keeping your whites looking healthy is more of a challenge today than ever. Unlike the old days consumers cannot simply add a little bleach to the wash. Instead of making them whiter, adding bleach might actually turn them yellow. Or maybe your whites are actually light gray. No matter how often you wash them, the dingy-look won’t come out.
 
What can affect the whiteness of fabrics?
White or pastel fabrics may turn yellow or take on a dingy appearance due to the deterioration of fluorescent brightening agents. In their natural state, many fabrics have an off-white or yellowish cast and are, therefore, bleached to remove their natural color. Optical brighteners are often added to make fabrics appear whiter and brighter. However, occasionally these agents break down, causing the fabric to revert to its natural off-white or yellowish color.
 
Graying of whites is most often caused by incomplete soil removal over an extended period of time despite repeated washing.
 
How can you keep whites their brightest?
Avoid exposure to light. Exposure to light can break down fluorescent brighteners, affecting only those areas that are exposed. For example, while the front of a sweater laid out to dry in the sun may turn yellow, the back will remain white. Once this happens, the damage usually cannot be corrected.
 
Avoid using chlorine bleach on whites, especially on wool, silk, nylon, rayon, and acetate. Chlorine bleach will cause fluorescent brighteners to break down more rapidly. Also avoid use of alkaline detergents, especially on wool, silk, and nylon.
 
Pre-soak heavily-stained garments to ensure adequate soil removal.
Make sure you use enough detergent and adequate water temperatures.
Avoid overloading the washing machine and sort clothes correct
 
How do you restore whiteness?
If your whites are looking more gray than you would like, here are some tips you can follow to remove soil buildup and restore whiteness to your washable items:
 
Use the hottest temperature of water acceptable for the fabric.
Add one to two cups of water conditioner.
 
 
Gown Restoration Can Bring Old Memories Back to Life
Perhaps there's a treasure hidden inside an old hope chest in your attic, or maybe your family has kept an heirloom gown for a few decades. Older gowns have often fallen victim to improper storage techniques, which can lead to yellowing, stains, holes in the fabric, and other problems.
The good news is there are a number of companies specializing in wedding gown restoration that can breathe new life into that special gown and make it wearable once again. Depending on what needs to be done, you may be able to restore an older gown for a fraction of the cost of a brand new one, and enjoy the magic just the same.

That old gown just might be what you're looking for but can't find in the store. Many brides choose this route simply to share the magic their elder felt while wearing the same gown for the same purpose. The results can be breathtaking. If you have an item like this we’d be happy to help you make it look its best.
 

Caring for Athletic Uniforms

With spring comes the arrival of the spring sports season- and spring athletic uniforms. As sports uniforms are bound to experience significant soiling and wear, special attention should be paid to their care.

Sports uniforms are usually made from synthetic fibers, such as nylon, polyester, spandex, or a blend of these fibers. The biggest problem athletic uniforms may experience is dye bleeding during the cleaning process. For this reason, it is important that you follow the manufacturer's care instructions carefully. Because some dyes are water-soluble, resulting in fading or dye transfer during washing, many uniforms have care labels that recommend a cold water wash. The color should be safe if washed in cold water, but it will often bleed if washed at a higher temperature.

If the color bleeds when washed at the recommended temperature, the manufacturer should be held responsible and the uniform returned to the retailer for an adjustment.

Here are some tips on how to keep those athletic uniforms looking great:

• Check the care label to determine the best method of care. Laundering is usually considered to be the most effective method for removing heavy soiling.

• Prior to cleaning, test for colorfastness to avoid color pick-up on other articles.

• Wash in a low temperature to reduce the chance of bleeding colors. Mud and grass stains may require treatment before washing.

• Avoid high drying temperatures. Shrinkage and permanent wrinkles may result. Laminated synthetics should be air dried.

• Do not allow items to soak or be wet for long periods of time.

• Dry athletic uniforms at low temperatures.

• Immediately remove athletic uniforms from the dryer and hang to avoid permanent wrinkles.

• When ironing, make sure it is set at the proper setting. A low temperature setting, such as polyester, is usually safe.